I was watching Brandy Hellville on Max and it got me thinking on how much I hate that brand. And fast fashion in general, yet I can’t get away from it.
I’m not someone with a lot of technical skills when it comes to making cosplays, even thought I’m a huge cosplayer. Not only do I have a fear of needles, but I just don’t have the time: working a full time job, being a pet parent, and running this website leaves me little time to take my measurements, let alone buy fabric and make something. So instead what I do is I shop for exacts.
Shopping for exacts is an art form. My one friend has this innate talent of looking at something and researching for maybe an hour before she finds the exact brand and name of the item. There used to be fashion groups dedicated to identifying and shopping for the exact pieces from television shows or movies; it used to be a great place to make friends who loved fashion and the same shows as you. You also met a lot of cosplayers around the world as we all ran in similar circles. There were a few downsides, such as people mass buying items that were identified and then upselling. And there could be the occasional bout of jealousy when someone found a ‘rare’ piece that you wanted (one day, I will find Violet Harmon’s Joie cardigan for under $100. I know it). This jealousy could lead to feelings of inadequacy or reluctance to share, especially as social media programs kids to bully you if you aren’t the same size as the character, or couldn’t make a screen accurate costume because you don’t have a television show’s budget. You’re just a guy. At the end of the day, if you really wanted to cosplay, you would just put on a brave face, slap together what you had, and get out there. So it all sounds pretty good right? WRONG.
No, I’m just kidding, it’s pretty good overall. The only real problem, after years of shopping and putting together cosplays, was how much we all fed into fast fashion and continue to do so.
So many of the programs we watch, from American Horror Story (although who is still watching that) to School Spirits, to some of our favourite movies rely on fashion that is mass produced. While I know some wardrobe departments are exceptionally unhappy about the switch, it might be the necessary evil of the modern golden and silver screens. I believe this reliance on fast fashion is due to the fact the looks can be easily replicated for when the outfit will get covered in blood or guts or whatever else the script calls for, and due to the fact film producers try to cut financial corners wherever they can. Long gone are the days where a majority of the costumes are made on set, with a lot of pieces for things coming from Shein or even Amazon. While this might work for a film, the average cosplayer runs into the issue of what to do to replicate the looks in the most ethical way possible. Even if you go somewhere like Etsy and find a custom costume of Jennifer Check from Jennifer’s Body, and it’s super affordable, it was probably made in a really unethical way. Shopping fast fashion is an unavoidable evil: it’s affordable, size inclusive (mostly) and easily accessible. This is why it’s a reliable source of outfits for people going to their first job interview, making sure they have pieces they feel comfortable in, and just to make their lives a little easier. Since cosplay is far from a necessity, it feels a little silly to justify shopping in that way for pieces. So what do you do to make it a little more ethical? I’ve come up with some solutions.
Buy secondhand.
More often than not, the pieces you want from a movie or TV show have hit stores already, and have been sitting in someone’s closet for almost a year. Websites like eBay and Poshmark are great for finding the exact pieces you are looking for, especially if you know the brand name and (like me) NEED exacts. If you are not lucky enough to have an incredible friend who can basically look at something and know where it’s from, Google Image Reverse is also a wonderful tool in finding exactly what you want, or my second option…
Buy dupes.
If you can’t find exactly what you want, or you’re more creative than me, you can always buy dupes. The websites above are great for shopping, but Depop and Threadless are also wonderful options if you want to shop secondhand don’t need something exact. Depop is one of my favourites as you have access to global closets, and so you can find some really cool rare gems that may not be exact, but are really special. Also, don’t forget about local thrift shops in your area that might also have some great finds for your cosplay. You also can find a lot of dupes that are ethically made and affordable.
Make your own.
If you aren’t like me and have skills, boundless creativity, and time, you can make your own cosplays. You can source the materials from ethical fabric sellers and make something incredible that you can be really proud of.
Lessen shopping fast fashion.
Sometimes, shopping fast fashion is inevitable; you find the exact thing you need for super cheap and it’ll save you a lot of time. You are just a person, you are not infallible, you can buy that and no one will judge you (or at least, they shouldn’t– you aren’t the problem). Just don’t do a massive wardrobe haul from Shein and I think you’ll still be able to sleep at night.
Whatever you do to put your cosplay together, know that you are valuable. And know that you don’t have to be screen accurate to be a good cosplayer. No matter what some asshole tells you on the internet, cosplay is just for fun, and people who body shame or poor shame or closet cosplay shame are not your target demographic anyway. Cosplaying as ethically as possible is a win that no one can take away from you. And if you need someone to hype you up, I’m here for you.